Dual Rudder Servos - courtesy Horizon Hobbies, author Len Alessi's "how to" using JR radios to set up dual servos.  This article actually explores the ENTIRE programming setup for the WHOLE airplane, dual elevator/aileron/rudder, pitch mix, roll mix, throttle up, and the best explanations of the Expo/VTR functions I've ever read!!!  Stop by the link (at Horizon Hobbies)

A "heatless" method of ensuring scratch and bubble-free installations!!!

My "Solution" - a small mister-sprayer, 8 oz size.  I put about 3 oz of sudsing Ammonia - my brand was "Parson's Sudsy Ammonia", balance is plain ol' water....gently mix.  This ammonia is a sudsing type, and produces lots of bubbles and foam if shaken....DON'T do that....  Set the sprayer for "mist", have a blast.  The high ammonia content really activates the adhesive on the monokote.

    1.  CUT your Monokote pieces on a glass table top, or a sewing cutting mat (that grey sorta plastic stuff in the WalMart sewing section is what I bought). Use a new knife. Better yet, use a single edge razor.  To REALLY stick, the edges must be perfect; sharp and perpendicular.
    2.  CLEAN the monokote surface you are COVERING with the solution. Streak-free, dust & grease free is the goal!
    3.  SPRAY the solution on the monokote...even coverage mist of droplets.  NOT saturation.  There will be LOTS of excess "runoff" when you squeegee.  Do this whole process over something that ammonia won't screw up.
    4.  PLACE Monokote pieces roughly where desired.  Move as needed, you have time.
    5.  SQUEEGEE out air bubbles, and nearly all of the ammonia solution, from the monokote pieces.  Work slowly, apply even, downward pressure carefully while maintaining contact between the monokote and the rubber edge.  You'll want some ammonia on the TOP of the trim piece also.  This helps the squeegee do it's job better.  I have found the BEST squeegee to be the little one out of the automotive  window film packages.  Easy to handle, small, has a great edge, and not  heavy.  You WON'T wear it out.  Work from the center outward, long pieces  that are narrow enough can be done in two passes.  It's easy.  Be sure to  have a finger holding it down SOMEPLACE.  Just enough to hold it against your squeegee pressure...the target is to have a small, and uniform, amount of the solution UNDER the trim piece, none on TOP, and none anywhere else.
    6.  WIPE with a highly absorbent soft cloth (diaper?) very gently so as not to disturb the trim piece you installed.  You're only getting off any excess that is left.  Don't rub and risk moving anything!  Just wipe/dab off the excess.
    7.  LEAVE IT ALONE FOR THE TIME IT TAKES TO BE COMPLETELY DRY.  Might be 24hrs.  Might be 5 hours.  A lot depends on the ambient conditions.  BE SURE IT DRIES COMPLETELY before you even touch it!!
    8.  TEST EDGES of the monokote trim by trying to 'peel' up the piece with a fingernail.  If you have well cut edges you won't need to seal with heat.  If you must........
    9.   SEAL EDGES, use the lowest setting on your iron that activates adhesive and makes two pieces of test covering stick to each other.  NO higher. All you're trying to do is seal the very edge, and that only needs to be 1/16" or so.  When I do this, I actually use the rounded 'edge' of the monokote iron, and make one deliberate pass with the edge only in contact with the monokote.  Works like a charm.
    10.  DO some test pieces of your choosing before you do your main project.  When you start your main project do the 'underside' surfaces FIRST.  Gives you skill practice for the technique before you do the part EVERYONE 'inspects', and let's you REALLY inspect the bottom of the airplane like you haven't in months!

So there.   Ten steps to bubble-free, beautiful monokote trim pieces.  This process REALLY works well.  Thanks to several others who gave me their techniques, permitting me to develop this one!

MADISON "Miracle Fueler"

Another discovery, courtesy RC Universe (Madison advertises there), are these fuel terminations (dots) with a Y fitting.  Although I do not use the Y, since I use three line systems, the dot has the advantage of being large enough to be easily used, and gas/oiled fat nail-less fingers can EASILY give 'em the 1/2 turn they need to lock or unlock.  Added advantage of o-ring to give a positive seal.  Give 'em a try.  http://www.qualityrcproducts.com/miraclefueler.html

CHECKING ENGINE THRUST

An idea for being "sure" you've measured thrust....Go to your local Builders' Square, Payless, Home Depot, etc, and buy a piece of 3/4" angle aluminum stock..1/8" thick stuff. Cut a length at least 20" long. Mark the center EXACTLY, then drill VERY carefully a clearance hole for the crankshaft on the 90 degree corner.

With motor mounted, and spinner back plate installed, place the alum bar with the "point" of the angle facing forward, install a washer and prop nut. Rotate the bar exactly horizontal, measure tips of the bar back to whatever reference point you choose. This is also helpful for checking wing/stab alignment horizontally, as you can reference up to the horizontal bar.

Rotate 90 degrees to check up/down similarly by measuring back to fuse centerline, stab, whatever.....

SHOCK-MOUNTING RECEIVERS
Basically, the receiver is suspended inside a hole. Whether it's a bulkhead or two fuse cross members, the idea is the same. Make two "H" shapes out of 1/16 ply or 1/8 light ply, sized appropriately. Glue to sides of bulkheads so you can loop a rubber band around each end or the receiver. I like to have about 1/4 to 3/8 clearance all the way around. Position, then wrap two rubber bands. MAKE SURE servo wires are secured (I used to tie mine into the receiver by using a piece of dental floss. In between the center and power lead of each servo wire, around the back of the receiver, then tied. Never had an extension come unplugged...) so that they won't rub any wood parts.

After you do this, run your plane in your stand or cradle with canopy off....Watch the receiver oscillate, particularly at mid throttle.

This way also saves weight (no foam) and allows EASY access for crystal change or inspection...

Hundreds of flights now on two versions of my own Hyde mount without a single break. We have discovered that the key is damping the mass of the pipe/header combo and reducing the lever arm of oscillations/stress along the header length. This is effectively done with two pipe clamps (we use the AAP type), then the lord-mount stud for the clamp around the header.

The "magic" is to properly mount the header so there is no VERTICAL bending, with only a single bend made to fit - ever - per installation. After once used, if you re-bend any header, they will break at the new stress point.

The header material is 5/8" OD stainless steel appliance tubing purchased at WalMart or HomeDepot or such place. Cut off the ends. Use a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut some angular slots about 3/16" long about 4 or 5 places around the forward edge. This is the area you "crimp" onto the header front piece. That's the broken Hatori piece you un-brazed the header material from by heating to cherry red with a butane torch.

Clean with a wire brush. Apply paste silver brazing flux where the new header will crimp. Cut the new header to approx. length, put the correct J or S bend you need, then crimp over the area you cleaned and fluxed. You already bought the Sil Foss silver bearing brazing rod from the refrigeration/heating and air supply company.

Hold everything in place rigidly. Heat the area of the crimp to RED, then apply the rod to flow the area. There's a technique here, and it takes some practice. At the other (coupler) end, I fill the coil area for one wrap of the tubing corrugation with SS wire, then fill with brazing rod, grind to shape, then smooth with wheel. This allows a great seal into the 5/8" Viton coupler.

Be sure to leak test the thing before using. If there is a leak at all, redo the deal.

Not counting the front piece, which you already paid for, the cost per header for this deal is about $7.

INSTALLING STABS IN GLASS FUSELAGES

Installing stabs in glass fuselages is a pain, even when things go well. This method results in PERFECT alignment. 

Install the stab after the wing, as the wing panels are the measurement references for stab location. Since you have to cut the hole in the fiberglass fuselage larger than the stab anyway, make short strips of 1/32" plywood, about 3/16" wide and 3/4" long and insert these near the center of the stab to get the stab relatively stable in the hole in the fuse. Spot glue the plywood shims using thick CyA, one spot on each side of the fuse. Cover the stab tips with masking tape to protect them from damage. 

Make a "bow" out of dental floss, light twine, or nylon cord with little stretch which goes across the fin, around the stab tips and across the bottom of the fuse. Snug it carefully (the masking tape protects the stab tips) against the shims, and align the stab in your favorite way. One method is to install the wings, stand way off, eyeball it , then adjust the stab tilt laterally until it is parallel with the wings. Rotational alignment is set using a measuring tape from wing trailing edge tip to stab trailing edge tip. Both sides MUST be precisely equal. Tweak the stab around until everything measures correctly, then re-snug the string "bow". 

Recheck ALL dimensions again to be sure they are correct. Use additional short shims front and rear, at the top and bottom of the stab opening in the fuselage to fill the opening between the fuselage sides and the stab surfaces. Recheck the alignment again and keep tension on the "bow". Apply a mixture of epoxy and milled fiberglass(or Cabosil or Microballoons) on the inside of the fuselage with a piece of music wire by reaching through the opening for the rudder post. Start at the locations of the shims, then fill the entire fuselage to stab joint, smoothing the outside of the joint with a moistened finger to shape the fillet. 

Do the top inside and outside first, let it cure, then gently turn the fuselage over, recheck alignment, and glue the bottom inside and outside. This method really works, results in small (light) fillets, the ply shims distribute the load across the glass, and ALWAYS results in a square stab.

 

Balsa Edge Truing Tool

John Winnard also helped with this tip.

The Truing Tool - Yes, it was "sprayed" on once...	Note the push tool...it's a sanding bar with 80 grit glued on...

Hate truing the edges of balsa sheeting? Want to spend less than $10 to make a tool that will give you years worth of time savings on this frustrating task? This tip uses inexpensive materials available at your local hardware store to build a jig for GUARANTEED STRAIGHT SHEETING EDGES.

Items required:

• 1/2 Inch Right angle aluminum extrusion stock (about $5 for a 6' piece)

• hand sander refill roll of 150 grit (non-sticky back -- about $1.50 for 40" x 2")

• 1 roll of Scotch THIN double sided tape on a roll (like regular scotch tape, and VERY thin; about $1.50).

• A flat piece of solid wood, at least as wide and long as your sheeting -- preferably longer. Mine is 48" x 6" for use with sheeting up to 44" long.

Cut the extrusion to the match the length of wood base you choose. Mark the extrusion about 2 inches from each end, then approximately every foot, and drill holes for sheet metal or wood screws. Mount the extrusion to the long edge of the wood base. Use a straight edge temporarily clamped to the wood surface to ensure that the extrusion is perfectly straight when mounted. When complete, remove the straight edge, clean the aluminum thoroughly, and attach the sticky tape to the aluminum. Pre-cut strips of sandpaper 1/2" wide and long enough to match your extrusion and attach by pressing into place against the double-sided tape. You may need to use two pieces of sandpaper end to end depending on the length of your tool -- it works fine.

Use a 36" wooden yardstick (obviously if doing 44" sheeting, you'd better use a 48" something or other) or something similar to make your push stick. Attach a few small pieces of sandpaper or thin rubber to the flat side of the yardstick to create balsa gripping surfaces.

Lay the sheeting to be trued on the wood piece, press against the sandpaper covered aluminum angle, and slide the sheeting side to side using the yardstick to apply even pressure against the sheeting. Be sure to apply even pressure against the sandpaper faced aluminum. A few strokes on each edge, and you have perfectly square, smooth, and straight gluing edges that take the drudgery out of preparing for glue joints.

 

Variable CG Method
When you need "variable" CG, try mounting different size tanks forward (or rearward, as needed) of the desired CG, then plumb them as "header tanks" for the main tank. I used this method to get 10oz of fuel weight forward to adjust for a tail-heavy condition. The forward tank stays full most of the flight because the tank on the CG empties first.

Here's how: Plumb the pressure line from either the pipe or your YS engine to the vent of the rear tank. Install the vent tee behind the check valve. The supply line from the rear tank connects directly to the vent of the front tank. The supply line from the front tank has a tee for fueling and then goes directly to the fuel inlet on the engine. This works great!!! And it adds only an ounce or so to the empty weight while allowing your fuel load to move the CG as needed to balance the plane.

MANUEVER GEOMETRY HELPER

For those who don't have a coach but recognize they have geometry problems to correct. On plain white typing paper, draw ACCURATE shapes of the maneuvers you're having problems with. Use as much of the sheet of paper as possible. Make the lines properly-proportioned, angles correct, radiuses round, etc.

Then, hold those shapes in front of you, at arm's length, and use them to visualize the geometric appearance of the maneuver. This may sound kind of hokey, but it WILL make a difference. The arm's length visualization is pretty important. Somehow this gives vertical placement perspective and helps.

AND - Go to the local craft/drafting/art supply store and buy a set of CHEAP drafting triangles.  There are two you'll need...one has a 90deg and two 45 degree angles, the other has a 90 deg, 30 deg, 60 deg...

    Then - take them to the field with you and while others are flying, practice holding up the appropriate angle to visualize the geometric accuracy.  If the pilot is someone you're HELPING - share your views post flight.  If it's a competitor, make a mental note of how the flaws looked, and don't do them in your flying!!!

    If you are fortunate enough to have a helper/critic/coach, have THEM hold the angles for you during YOUR flight, then talk to you afterward.

    I have done this for years with some names you'd be surprised at, and I can tell you IT WORKS!!!!!

MY ALIGNMENT JIG...

I have two of these...they're crude, but here's the basics....start with a 12" or wider 7/8" FLAT particle board (shelf stock at many home improvement stores) and at least 5' long...I drilled mounting holes in the corners and midpoint of the long side to screw to my FLAT main workbench.

The "jig" is made with four 5/16" threaded rods, 18" long. These are mounted about 12" from the ends, and 3 or 4" in from the sides. Then I bought the necessary wing nuts, washers, and wood so I could make some 1"x 2"x 12" cross braces/fixtures. These are drilled perfectly vertical to slide freely on the threaded rod. A wing nut and washer above and below on each side of both, and you have a FIRM surface that is micro adjustable. This piece becomes the "Fuselage Jig", and with the help of some nylon straps or bunji's you can mount the fuse into this thing and it is RIGID.

A 24"carpenter's framing square is then used at the back for vertical alignment of the fin. The framing square is a MUST have...I actually have TWO...not counting the two adjustable carpenter tri-squares. And a High precision bubble level x 2.

For thrust, I have a 3/4" aluminum angle piece ( L shape) about 24" long...dead center drilled on the 'point' of the 90 degree corner. This is dead straight, quite rigid, precision drilled for center, and mounts on the shaft of the motor. With the right assortment of nuts, bolts, spacers, you can anchor and align anything on the front of the plane to anything else.Wing tube fixtures are simple...precision cut wood blocks with "v" cuts about 1" deep at the center...these have little L brackets which let me anchor the bracket to the "fuse jig" wherevever I need. I use another set of them for the stab fixture too.

The expensive piece of ALL of this is the digital precision level. I spent $ 60 for mine, and after using it for a couple of years, I wouldn't take $ 500 !!!! It is THAT valuable. Of course, I also had a Robart Incidence meter...kept the parts that grab the wing, replaced the bar with a new aluminum bar 24" long, and used another piece of the 3/4" aluminum stock to make a precision bracket to mount the digital level to the new bar. So basically, I have a "Robart" meter, longer, and with an electronic level. The bar is configured so I can measure the thrust bar, wing tubes, stab,rotate the fuse 90 degrees, now measure everything in the "vertical" plane of reference. After you build your first plane with this kind of stuff, you gain a new appreciation for exactly how much 1/4 of a turn on a Gator adjuster gives you!!! Not to mention, you learn how wide the thinnest marker lines are, and find the thinnest markers to compensate....even to using the "two line" system...

The 'final' piece of the jig is the "Alignment Cable"...this is so simple it's insulting, but a guy in Alaska sent it to me, I tried it, and I won't do anything else. I use pull-pull, so I have the crimps and cable laying around...Make a 5' piece of cable, loop on the end with a crimp to fit over a screw, then a brass slider with a 1/16" wheel collar on it. Loop on the other end to hold onto. Put a screw in the nose, or bottom of fin, or top of fin, whatever you use ( I use all) and you have a "calibrator" for all the x and y alignment chores of wing setting and stab installation. It is so simple, but works so well.

Almost forgot...you MUST have at least one 18" ruler that is calibrated somewhere down to 1/32" grads. Yes. It gets that weird. Remember that comment above about "width of markers" ??? Check some of 'em..you'll be surprised...so WHERE exactly is the Center of one of those wide lines?????

MY INCIDENCE METER...

I have been dissatisfied with the Robart meter for many years....a few years ago, I found a digital meter which was intended for a Level.  Surprisingly, I managed to buy the "demo model" at the hardware store.  It measures in .1 degree increments.

First, I robbed the fixture parts from the Robart; the parts that grab the wing.  Then, I needed a bigger bar, so it was off to the hardware store for a replacement aluminum bar.  It had to be longer, so I chose 24".

Mounting the meter was a little delicate.  There were two fasteners used to mount the meter to the level originally.  I used them as a spacing guide, then built an aluminum bracket to mount the meter to the bar.  Since the meter allows zeroing in use, on the fly, any position, alignment didn't get real critical, but I took some effort to be sure the mounting screws were centered.

The only drawback to the meter is weight.  It's not light, and on a built up structure, I have to be very careful about warping.  On pattern wings, they are stout enough.

   Some sample numbers - on my EMC, the adjusters are 7 and 10" from the center of the tube, front and rear.  Using this meter, and Gator adjusters, just under 1/2 turn of the 4-40's works out to .1 degree.  It is a surprise how much flying effect there is from LESS than 1/2 turn.  You should try this...it will change the way you align airplanes forever!!!

TANK ASSEMBLY HINT - A reminder at this past weekend's contest in KC from friend Charlie Rock, (yes, I feel your pain) regarding tank troubleshooting.  Charlie fought incredible frustration dealing with a motor that would die at the same place in his Masters' sequence EVERY FLIGHT!!!!   After doing what we all probably WOULD do, he found the real problem.....yes - a crack in the silicone pickup line INSIDE the tank, right at the end of the brass tube from the stopper.  The sharp edge eventually cut through, and when the tank was inverted, about a third into the flight, the clunk would fall to the top of the tank, and the crack at the brass tube would then draw air.  Instant dead stick.  The reminder is -  NEVER forget to pay attention to the symptoms!!!  If a deadstick repeats at the same "time" after engine start, it is TANK related!!!   It is ABSOLUTELY tank related!!!!  Charlie fixed his by changing the tank, and completed the contest.

SO.... when you have a new tank, assemble it with whatever tubes you use, but chamfer and de-burr BOTH ends of the tubing, on all the tubes...this will definitely stop the fuel line cracks that WILL occur if there is a sharp edge or the slightest burr on the tubing.  It will save you grief down the road!!!!

Luer-Lock Tube Fittings For information, see www.mcmaster.com Nylon and Polypropylene Luer-Lock Tube Fittings      These tube fittings have a one-piece molded design. It takes only a quarter turn to connect and disconnect them. Fittings meet ANSI MD 70.1-1955 specifications. Working pressure is 125 psi. For luer-lock disposable syringes, see page 3156.      Package quantity is 10. When you buy 10 or more packages of the same size and style fitting, the price is 15% to 20% lower.      Nylon— Temperature range is -65° to +180° F. Color is white.      Polypropylene— Has good chemical resistance. Temperature range is -40° to +200° F. Color is translucent white.       MALE LUER  x  BARB     FEMALE LUER  x  BARB   Tube Nylon Polypropylene Nylon Polypropylene ID Per Pkg.   Per Pkg.   Per Pkg.   Per Pkg.      1/16"  51525K121  $4.29   51525K131  $4.86   51525K211  $3.72   51525K261  $4.29   3/32"  51525K122  4.29   51525K132  4.86   51525K212  3.72   51525K262  4.29   1/8"  51525K123  4.29   51525K133  4.86   51525K213  3.72   51525K263  4.29   5/32"  51525K124  4.86   51525K134  5.43   51525K214  4.29   51525K264  4.86   3/16"  51525K125  4.86   51525K135  5.43   51525K215  4.29   51525K265  4.86   1/4"  51525K126  4.86   51525K136  5.43   51525K216  4.29   51525K266  4.86  Male Luer Plug Female Luer Plug Per Pkg.   Per Pkg.     Nylon  51525K311  $2.56   51525K315  $4.26  Polypropylene  51525K361  2.97   51525K365  5.12